westbankwalkabout

Thank you, Yanoun

2010-10-15T06:41:00.010+02:00

As per usual the children in the village came to play outside our house. It was our last night (on the 13th) in the village, and the children were well aware of the fact that we would be leaving the next day. We had as much fun as we always do, and that night we even shared two large bowls of popcorn. Usually it was only one.

The children of Yanoun became a big part of my time here. On several occasions did we hear from their parents that the kids feel safe because of the international presence in the village. By all means, that is a good thing, but the inevitable questions surfaces: For how long will this have to go on? The future answer to this lies in the Israeli Knesset, approximately 60 kilometers to the south, a city these children will probably never visit.

My time in Yanoun is over for now. I go home, forever grateful. Thank you, Yanoun.

A great bunch of kids

Today we pick olives

2010-10-13T06:30:00.001+02:00

These were the exact words of the village mayor yesterday morning, as I was sitting outside, having just watched the sun rise above Hill 777 to the south. On Monday the mayor had completed an inspection tour of the surrounding olive groves and found that this year's harvest is of the meager kind, mainly due to lack of rainfall last winter. Here on the West Bank, the olive harvest is usually good every second year, and needless to say, the villagers are preying for better times next year.

Sunrise over Hill 777

Nonetheless, the families headed into the groves, laid out their tarps and started picking. In total we spent about eight hours with one family yesterday. After having finished approximately fifteen trees, the scale stopped at a mere 45kg. Given that it takes approximately 3-4kg of olives to produce one liter of oil, the numbers speak for themselves. There are still quite a few trees left to be harvested, so there should be enough oil, both for sale and consumption, for the coming 12 months.

Black olives

Green olives

Today looks set to be very much like yesterday, besides that fact that we need to clean the house, pack our bags and get ready to go. Tomorrow we head to Jerusalem, and in a few days from now, I shall be returning home.

Sunday service with Father Ibrahim

2010-10-10T20:07:00.000+02:00

Today is the last Sunday of my three months in this part of the world, so one of my team members and myself decided to attend service in Nablus, to show solidarity with the Christian community in Nablus. As is the case across the West Bank, the Christian community in Nablus is shrinking in relative size, even though the absolute number remains more or less constant.

The Church of the Good Shepherd (Rafidiyah, Nablus)

Service was held at the Church of the Good Shepherd in Rafidiyah, starting at 1030 AM. The congregation numbered approximately 40 and the entire service lasted about an hour. After prayers and hymns, they all received the Holy Communion.

Waiting to receive the sacrament

Attending church this morning also gave us a chance to meet up with ecumenical accompaniers from Tulkarem and to let Father Ibrahim know that from next week, a new team will arrive and be present on Sundays. After a short break, we said our goodbyes to this small but tight-knit community.

Reading from the Bible

In December 2009, the Kairos Palestine document, A Moment of Truth, was published. It is an outcry from the Palestinian Christians in the Holy Land, calling for an end to the Israeli occupation. For more information, see also http://www.kairospalestine.ps.

The rain has arrived

2010-10-09T17:56:00.000+02:00

For nearly three months we have been battling temperatures in the high 30's (centigrade). Yesterday that all changed, with the arrival of the first rain showers of the season. Summer is definitely over.

While heading back to Upper Yanoun, the flood gates of heaven suddenly opened. Although only for ten minutes, it was quite the refreshment. For the surrounding landscape this also means dramatic changes. In a few weeks, the village paddocks will again be green and lush, providing an alternative source of nutrition for the village livestock.

Soon to be green pastures

Ecumenical accompaniers in Yanoun - on a rainy day

Village life is very much a communal affair. Work is labour intensive and all the men, both young and old, lend a hand whenever necessary. Two days ago the village received five huge bales of hay, and these needed to be divided amongst the shepherds. In the village, the men were busy loading, so it was only natural for us to help them out. It puts a smile on their faces, and in the end that is what it is all about - presence.

Collective effort in Yanoun

All about the olives

2010-10-07T15:50:00.001+02:00

At this time of year the most important event for the Palestinians is the olive harvest. Picking dates depend both on permits and the weather, and whether or not the olives will be used for eating or oil production. As demonstrated in the last post, illegal settler activity also decide when people will start picking this "green gold".

Despite everything that has been going on in the village during the last few days, we were able to lend the women next door a hand, harvesting their first tree, which coincidentally stands right outside our house. From that tree alone, we were able to collect somewhere between 5-8 kg of green olives that will be eaten and not run through the press.

One bucket...

Two buckets...

As ecumenical accompaniers an important part of our work is to stand in solidarity with Palestinians who in one way or another are suffering under the Israeli occupation. Although our term here is soon ending, we hope to contribute to the olive harvest, which will provide much needed income for the people we have been sharing our lives with for the past three months. Granted that the village will receive all the permits on time, the army and the police will hopefully provide the necessary protection from the vigilante settlers of Itamar and its illegal outposts - God willing.

The first Australian EA picking olives in Yanoun

The petty thieves of Itamar

2010-10-07T04:52:00.002+02:00

The settlers of Itamar have, yet again, disgraced the village of Yanoun with their presence. This time stealing olives located on Palestinian land. Around midnight on October 5th (Tuesday), a car, never seen in Upper Yanoun, with a fully loaded trailer, headed up the Eastern valley, towards the illegal outpost on Hill 777.

The village mayor received a late night call from one of the farmers in Lower Yanoun, who told him that he had seen lights among the olive trees, between 1800-2400, in one of the groves. He had heard a "thumping sound". Because of the dark and the fact that settlers are usually armed with automatic weapons, we had to wait until Wednesday morning to assess the damage. 16 trees had been harvested, most likely by using a big stick, hitting the tree trunks and branches, so that the olives would fall onto the ground.

Tracks leading onto the fields

After making somewhere between 50-60 calls on Wednesday morning, Rashed (the mayor) was able to attract the attention of the ICRC, Rabbis for Human Rights, as well as Maan News Agency, who all paid the village a visit during the afternoon. Even the Israeli DCO (District Coordination Office) came to assess the damage - although fifteen hours too late. When the mayor made the call at midnight on Tuesday, we sat outside his house for a good forty minutes waiting for the DCO (the army), to no avail. Hence, the chance that anyone will ever be facing charges, for trespassing or stealing, let alone prosecuted is extremely slim, if not non-existent.

A pile of olives left behind

Yet again, this proves that settlers, like the ones in Itamar, are allowed to roam free like vigilantes, with complete disregard for the rule of law, while Palestinians continue to suffer both economically and emotionally.

The State of Israel often claims to have "the most moral army in the world" and to be "the only democracy in he Middle East". The latter of these two does not always pertain to the situation on the ground in the occupied territories. But, the former does. Tuesday's incident just shows that the Israeli army has got a long way to go, as far a morals and a sense of justice go - unfortunately.

Another act of intimidation

2010-10-02T11:22:00.003+02:00

Just before 0800AM this morning, two young Israeli settlers from Itamar's illegal outpost on Hill 777 entered the village, accompanied by their four legged canine. Again, the village well was of particular interest, with both of the young men opening the hatch, trying to figure out a way to get in for a refreshing dip. Fortunately, they were unsuccessful in their quest and headed towards one of the lower houses.

Close by (approximately 20 meters away) was one of the shepherds herding his flock. The settlers waited for a few minutes before they headed up to the two houses at the beginning of the eastern valley. After a few minutes, my Swedish colleague and myself headed up the same way to see if they had made their way out of the village and back up to the illegal outpost.

The cat and mouse game

As we approached the enclosure where some of the sheep are kept, we immediately saw the two settlers crouching down by a pile of dead branches. Suddenly a chicken jumped out of the pile and it was clear that it had been badly mauled by the dog, only within a few minutes. The two young settlers walked off to let the dog "finish the job" on its own.

In for the kill

This might look like an isolated event, but in fact it is part of the ongoing harassment and intimidation, caused by these frequent settler incursions. Women and children go inside scared, the men stop working until the settlers leave, obviously knowing what they are capable of, from experience. And like always, on of the settlers was armed with a handgun.

Will these two young men face charges for trespassing? No.

Will there be compensation paid for the dead chicken? No.

Will this happen again in the future? Yes.

Sadly enough, it is evident that the settlers live above the law. Why this is so, I do not know, nor do I understand it. After nearly three months in the occupied territories, I am still baffled by the ruthless behavior settlers all across the West Bank are exerting. However, one thing is for clear: As an occupying force, the State of Israel needs to step up to the plate and provide the occupied people adequate protection. Non-negotiable.

For more information on the history of Yanoun and it's problems with the Itamar settlement community, please read Living with settlers by Thomas Mandal, a former Ecumenical Accompanier from Norway.

Eloquent Speaking 101

2010-09-30T16:15:00.012+02:00

In late August, I visited Efrata, an illegal settlement just south of Bethlehem. Since its inception in 1983, the settlement has seen its population grow at a steady pace. It now stands at approximately 8500. In fact, it is so large that it is considered part of the city of Bethlehem. The settlement is self-sufficient, with its own grocery stores, religious centers, primary and secondary schools, post office and 33 (!!) kindergartens. I guess they are preparing for even greater population growth.

- Hello, my name is Bob Lang. Welcome to our community.

With thick American accent, Bob Lang looked like an other regular middle-class American citizen. Only the small kippah on the back of his head gave away his religious affiliation. It did not take long for me to understand that Bob Lang may not realize (or understand) what he and the his community's presence actually does to the outside world. He spoke warmly about Judea and Samaria, which of course are the biblical terms of modern day Palestine, and presented a map that might be suitable for a history book in the 1940's.

Bob Lang and his outdated maps

- There are no good maps of modern day Israel, he said.

Now that the building freeze has ended, it looks like Bob Lang might be right. He showed great frustration about the word "settlement". For Bob Lang community is a much better word. Again, it shows his complete disregard for international and Israeli law. Although the settlement freeze has ended, settlement outposts are still illegal, and Efrata has at least two of these.

- I don't know why we are called settlers or settlements. It refers to something temporary. We are permanent, we are here to stay. If I had 500 housing units drop from the sky tomorrow, I could sell them all, in an instance.

During the hour with Bob Lang, it was pointed out that Israeli settlements are often green with lots of trees, whilst Palestinian villages often lack sufficient water supply and look fairly "dry".

- Everybody is short of water here. But, the Palestinians have pumped their wells dry, so now we need to supply them.

According to the World Health Organization (WHO), an average Jewish settler on the West Bank consumes 330 liters of water every day. For an average Palestinian, that same number is 60. WHO recommends at least 100. The inequity hits you in the face!

Inside Efrata - lush and green

Hebron (al-Khalil)

2010-09-27T18:41:00.004+02:00

In the southern West Bank, lies the city of Hebron, the biggest in the Palestinian territories, with more than 150 000 inhabitants. The city has for many years been troubled by the violent settlers, who make life very difficult for the local Palestinians. This, despite the fact the 500-600 settlers are grossly outnumbered by the Palestinians. Even if one were to include the Jewish population in the biggest settlement, Kiryat Arba, it would make no difference in relative terms.

Hebron/al-Khalil (Tel Rumeida in the middle)

Walking the streets of Hebron, it becomes clear that life in the city is quite somber, particularly in H2. People are facing a grim future, unless drastic changes take place. Shops are closing, people losing their livelihood and settlers and soldiers alike make Palestinian freedom of movement very difficult at times.

Hebron Border Police and his M16

Palestinians doors welded shut - business moves outside

It is difficult to fully understand how the situation became what it is today, but clearly lack of (lawful) intervention by the Israeli government is partly to blame. However, when speaking to local Palestinians, it is obvious that the Palestinian Authority, could be doing a lot more for its people. As Hashem al-Aza, a Palestinian continuously suffering harassment from the settlers in Tel Rumeida, told me during my visit to his home:

- Over the last few years, the Palestinian Authority has done nothing for us, absolutely nothing.

Shuhada street

Father Ibrahim - a man of determination

2010-09-22T08:02:00.003+02:00

Father Ibrahim heads the congregation of the Anglican church in Nablus. Yesterday I had the opportunity to sit down with this man, head of a Christian community, that has seen most of its members leave Palestine for better opportunities elsewhere, in the United States, Canada and Australia.

- Palestinian Christians have been leaving Palestine for the last 100 years, but the emigration was exacerbated by the Israeli occupation, Father Ibrahim explains, also telling me that even four of his own closest relatives left to seek a better life abroad.

Father Ibrahim in his office in Nablus

Curious as to why he chooses to stay, particularly when Christians are leaving the Holy Land, the birthplace of Jesus Christ, including his family, I asked him the all important question: Why?

- If I wanted, I could leave tomorrow, but I will not. This is my homeland. I do not only love my country, I adore my country. This is my beloved place. Here in this land, Jesus gave us his teachings. I am here to protect the footsteps of Jesus Christ.

Although not a Christian myself, I found this a very powerful answer. Here I was sitting with a man, very fortunate, compared to the surroundings he lives in. Still he chooses to stay, to preach the word of God. Quite frankly, I was both amazed and impressed by the strength of his faith and his determination to keep the Christian struggle alive, in a place where both the occupation and time is not on his side.

The old Anglican church in Nablus

- Jesus said about the future of this land: I have come so they may have life, and may they have it abundantly (John 10:10). It means we have to struggle for a better life, for a better future.

My time was up, but I left with a better understanding of why people, like Father Ibrahim, continues the struggle, against all odds.

What building freeze?

2010-09-21T07:54:00.001+02:00

Come midnight on September 25th the current settlement building freeze ends, and chances are that full scale expansion will again resume across settlements and their illegal outposts here on the West Bank. Given the fact that an extension of the freeze is such a thorny issue for both sides, it is reasonable to assume that Israel would honour its commitment - at least as long as the talks are taking place.

Sadly, this is not so. As I arrived back in the village yesterday from Jerusalem, I was informed that large trucks had been working overtime on the adjacent hill, Hill 777, upgrading the access road to the illegal outpost and the army enclave sitting on top of the hill. At one point there was even a passenger bus descending the hill. Now that is a first - guaranteed. Only one week ago, did they shift one of the mobile homes from one end to the other (see photo below), with several onlookers being present, including men, women and children. For all its intents and purposes, this is in clear violation of the political preconditions, and makes for an uncertain future for the people of Yanoun.

Both parties, the Israelis and the Palestinians, have made it explicitly clear that settlements is a top priority, although the desired outcome stand in stark contrast to one another. With such diverging objectives, this issue is likely make or break this current attempt at creating a lasting peace and a possible Palestinian state.

Construction continues on Hill 777 (illegal outpost)

An end to the moratorium or not? 5 days and counting...

A visit to the ER (Emergency Room)

2010-09-17T17:22:00.001+02:00

For the second time this week, I had to rush from the village to Jerusalem for urgent medical attention. The symptoms were clearly indicative of kidney stones. Last night at around midnight, just after the army had made their security round through the village did I start to feel slight discomfort in my left side. In less than 2 hours did it get progressively worse. I decided that the only option was to head for Jerusalem. With the aid of my Australian teammate, we arrived at the Hadassah Medical Center Emergency Room at Mount Scopus at approximately 0430AM.

It took eleven hours from admission until release. During that time, blood was drawn (results normal), IV was administered and a CT-scan of the lower abdomen was performed. Conclusion: Stone in left kidney.

Upon release the nurse told me to rest for a couple of days, to be close to medical services and prescribed me some drugs, in case the pain resumes or escalates. So here I am, resting in a hotel room in Jerusalem, recovering from a night of excruciating pain. Sometimes the life of an EA is not about accompaniement, settlers or checkpoints, but about taking care of one's own health. That is not always easy.

Released - in time for Yom Kippur

Tramadex and Optalgin

Nonetheless, I hope to be back with my team in the village on Monday morning - fingers crossed.

A morning in the taboon

2010-09-16T09:08:00.003+02:00

A taboon is a typical oven used all over the Middle East for making the traditional staple bread. Every town and village has got one - Yanoun being no different. Here in the village there two of them, and today a fellow EA and myself where invited inside by Kamal's wife to see how they make their bread here.

Taboon oven - exterior

The walls inside were black, covered in soot, from many years of baking. There was a nice smell inside, a mix of freshly baked bread and burnt wood. The bread here in Yanoun is made using a very simple recipe: Water, flour, salt and yeast. When the dough is ready it is but into a small compartment in the ground, with a lid put on top. The lid is then covered with hot, glowing embers and left to bake between 3-5 minutes. The end result is a soft or crispy, mouthwatering Palestinian culinary delight.

Almost ready

The final product (cheese on the side, optional)

Expect the unexpected

2010-09-15T07:43:00.004+02:00

Two evenings ago I was making my way, on foot, from Upper to Lower Yanoun. Every afternoon, the Ecumenical Accompaniers walk around in the village to show their physical presence. As the sun was about to set, it was getting dark and I was eager to return back to Upper Yanoun as quickly as possible. However, things did not turn out exactly as planned.

As I got closer to Lower Yanoun, their olive trees came into view. Suddenly I noticed a bright orange colour underneath one of the trees. Admittedly I found this somewhat peculiar, particularly since there were no sheep or shepherds around. Turned out the olive tree was on fire (by the root).

Olive tree on fire

I rushed over to the nearby houses and alerted the villagers. The olive harvest is coming up in just over one month and is one of the most essential incomes for Palestinians who live off the land. After one bucket of water and ten buckets of dirt the fire was put out. The villagers returned home and I to Upper Yanoun.

Extinguishing the fire

When or how this fire started no one knows. However, the most important thing is that it was put out and the old olive tree salvaged. It really shows how things suddenly change, even in a small village like Yanoun.

* UPDATE (1130AM) *

Turns out some shepherds forgot to put their fire out when they where making tea. Unfortunately, the tree did not survive the fire after all.

All that remains...a day and a half later

A Shepherd's Tale

2010-09-14T10:49:00.001+02:00

This morning I spent a couple of hours with one of the village shepherds tending his animals in the lower fields. As the weather is starting to slowly cool off here on the northern West Banks, the mornings are now pleasant and enjoyable.

As we sat in the fields, in the shade of an almond tree, we talked about everything from how much a sheep would fetch on the local market to the wild animals that roam free on the surrounding hills. With broken English and limited Arabic, we managed to have another pleasant time together. The shepherd's name is Kamal. Born and raised in Yanoun, a father of six, now raising his own family in the village.

Kamal tending his sheep and goats

- I like Yanoun. It's quiet and beautiful, I said.

With a big smile on his face, it was clear that he feels the same way. Then his face suddenly turned serious, which is unusual for Kamal.

- Yanoun good before settlers, was his reply.

As he looked up on the surrounding hills, now providing infrastructure for the hamlets (illegal outposts) belonging to the illegal Itamar settlement, ten kilometers to the northwest, there was no question that he was thinking about the village, and how it has changed over the years, from when he was a child.

Sheep grazing with Yanoun in the background

For the next ten to fifteen minutes, Kamal told me about his father and how he used to live in Yanoun. He explained that his father had more than one hundred sheep and that they were able to graze on the hills, which provided better grass for the animals. This however, all changed in 1998 - with the arrival of settlers.

- To begin with, the settlers where friendly. They came to the village and greeted us", Kamal remembers.

Then one night in 2002, between 10-20 armed settlers on horseback, came to the village. Without restraint, they forcefully entered people's homes, threatening them both physically and verbally. Knowing that some of the children in the village were old enough to understand what was happening at the time, I asked Kamal about his children.

- They came late one night in 2002. My youngest daughter was only a baby, so she doesn't remember anything. But my second oldest son, now 14, was only 6 at the time. They held him at gunpoint. He was shaking with fear, he recounts.

- Now that you (EAPPI) are here, the children are not afraid. They are happy.

Hearing his story, particularly what happened to his children was hard to take in. I know Kamal's children relatively well by now, and it is difficult to comprehend what they have been going through, given the positive attitudes they all exert today.

Almond leaves as animal feed

Before heading back up to the village he expressed his gratitude for the work that we do in Yanoun. I was unsure how to respond, but in a somewhat awkward fashion I said:

- Ahlan wa sahlan (You are welcome).

We are looking for the spring

2010-09-12T10:36:00.005+02:00

For the fourth straight day people unknown to the village people have paid them a visit. Today, two young men arrived in a white jeep (4x4) looking for the village spring. They spoke with one of the shepherds in arabic, with an al-Khalil (Hebron) accent. It turned out that they were both settlers, one armed with a handgun. The driver claimed to be from the army. I asked him if they were on duty this particular morning, something he confirmed.

Unknown visitors by the well - again

- Would you like to see me id-card?, he said.

As he showed me his card, it was clear the neither of these men were from the army. Confronted with the fact that his card clearly stated "Police", he conveniently replied:

- For us here, it is the same.

Two young, armed men, driving a civilian car, claiming to be from the army but carrying police id-cards, originating from Hebron (a 3-hour drive away) looking for a spring in Yanoun. It just doesn't add up.

Up close and personal

Shabbath - settlers come to town

2010-09-11T12:09:00.001+03:00

It is Saturday morning, which means the Jewish holiday of Shabbath. For the third consecutive day, settlers from the nearby Itamar settlement, have chosen to spend their day off walking through the village of Yanoun. Despite illegally grabbing 90% of the land that surrounds the village, they still find it necessary to walk through the village, scaring the women and children, armed with M4 carbine automatic weapons.

Settlers heading down towards the village well

Synchronized settlers

There is no logical explanation as to why they choose to walk through the village. Clearly this is harassment of the worst kind. These men are both armed, unpredictable and dangerous. I can do nothing but feel sorry for the villagers since all they want is to lead normal lives.

The Boys of Summer

2010-09-10T20:22:00.000+03:00

Every night for the past two months, around eight o'clock at night, the village children come to our doorstep to "hang out". Whether it is for playing chess, the guitar or riding their bicycles, they are here, enjoying themselves, despite the reality that surrounds them. Today marked the first day of breaking the fast, after the holy month of Ramadan. For three days, muslims across the world celebrate Eid al-Fitr.

This morning when I came outside our house, six of the boys in the village called for me, and asked me to come over. So I did. All six of them were dressed in spanking new outfits, from head to toe, looking very smart. For the first time I asked if I could take their picture, and they all lined up with a big smile on their faces. I took that as a definite YES. These kids are a great bunch. Polite and with loads of energy.

Brand new outfits

Enough with the photos. The boys had and agenda: Figs and water. Therefore, we headed down to the village well for a quick refreshment, before climbing up into the trees to pick our snacks. And did we get lucky! After a few unsuccessful attempts, they managed to pick a dozen soft and juicy figs. A perfect (healthy) snack before lunch. Definitely one of the hidden treasures here in the village of Yanoun, on the northern West Bank.

First water...

...then figs

Eid Mubarak!

Rosh Hashanah - a settler comes to town

2010-09-09T16:49:00.004+03:00

At 1400PM today I looked out the living room window towards the village well. What I see is a person wearing something that appears to be a cap, a white t-shirt and a wide black strap going diagonally across his torso. Sometimes Palestinians from the nearby town of Aqraba stops by the well to get some water. However, when I saw this person, I realized there was something distinctively non-Palestinian about him. I grabbed my camera and quickly walked down to the mayors house and told him that there was a settler praying by the well. The cap turned out to be a kippah.

The Torah trooper: The Book of Moses, Handgun and an M-16

After completing his prayer, the settler packed up his things and continued his hike through the village. Attempting to ignore both the EA's and the mayor of the village, he continued up Hill 830, part of the outposts belonging to the religious settlement of Itamar. Watching a trespasser up close and personal, armed to the teeth, is a somewhat surreal and not a particularly pleasant experience.

September 8th (sunset), marked the beginning the Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashanah, and lasts until sunset on September 10th. The settler community tend to be more active on their public holidays, and coming up this month are the holidays of Yom Kippur, Sukkot, Shemini Atzeret and the Simchat Torah. Hence, there might be more unexpected and unpleasant visits to follow here in the village of Yanoun....

Making his way through the village

One choice, one choice only

2010-09-09T11:41:00.004+03:00

For the second time in nearly two months I visited Jordan Valley. Last time I was there, house demolitions had taken place in al-Farisiya, a small farming community in the northern Tubas district/governorate. As we drove past yesterday, heading south from the Palestinian town of Bardala, new temporary greenhouses were still standing, although the tents previously provided by the ICRC were now nothing but rubble.

Welcome to al-Farisiya

Temporary housing (al-Farisiya)

Alternative feed storage (al-Farisiya)

In Bardala we were greeted by the town's mayor, for the past 15 months, Muafaq Sawafta. He gave us a brief introduction to the history of the village and the challenges facing the people living there today. As with the rest of the Palestinian villages in the valley, water is a scarce resource, controlled by Israel and supplied by Mekorot, Israel's National Water Company. Over the past 30 years, the water supply to Bardala, although paid for by the Palestinian Authority, has been halved, severely constraining Bardala's development opportunities, particularly in agriculture. Since the Israeli fence, that now runs along the Jordanian border, was erected, Bardala has lost 3000-4000 dunam's of land. It still has 5000 dunam's for agricultural purposes, but it holds only 480 dunams in Area A, which leaves little room for township expansion and population growth.

- I am not going to say we have problems here, said Sawafta.

- But, we need more water.

Bardala mayor, Muafaq Sawafta

As our conversation progressed, we started talking about the current meetings in Washington DC. After all, hearing how people perceive their governments and their ability to deliver on promises, is for me very important. We touched upon the issues of settlements, borders, refugees and water. But, I did not get a clear image of the message that the mayor was trying to convey. Therefore, just before we left his little supermarket, which had functioned as a meeting room for the past 30 minutes, I asked him a direct question:

If you could choose one outcome from the direct talks in Washington DC, what would it be?

- The settlers, they have to leave.

It was not until we left that I truly understood the (potential) impact of Sawafta's response. If the settlers leave, the army would also go, and the Palestinians would again be able to live off the land and to live in the Jordan Valley - with dignity.

Sawafta's grandchildren - the future of Bardala

History repeating

2010-09-05T22:31:00.001+03:00

While we were in Haifa earlier this week, al-Jazeera published a brief story about settler retaliations on the West Bank, following the fatal shootings in the southern city of Hebron. One of the villages that suffered from these attacks, was Burin, a village I have written about previously.

The initial plan today was to meet the mayor of Burin and hear about the recent slashing of 17 olive trees on August 31st. Unfortunately the mayor was not around for our 1100 AM appointment. While waiting in his office, another man suddenly appeared. It was Akram Ibrahim Ali Imran (41), the farmer who lost his trees. It turned out that this was not the first time his only livelihood had been destroyed. Ten months ago he lost approximately 80 trees, when settlers, most likely from the religious Yitzhar settlement went on a rampage on the Burin hillside.

Akram Ibrahim Ali Imran (41) with one of his ruined olive trees

First chainsaw, then brute force

It was a devastated man we met today. Given that the olive trees are his family's only income, I asked him about the value of his trees. "In total I have now lost 100 trees in less than a year. That means my annual harvest from these trees would amount to 2000 kg, or in financial terms NIS 76500 (approx. USD 19000)." As he explained this, he tore off an olive from one of the branches on the ground, squeezed it and said: "Look, finito, no liquid." Obviously the olive was already dried out. And with the actual harvest still being one month away, Akram has lost it all.

A wasted fruit

Sadly enough, this is happening all to often here on the northern West Bank. For Akram, his livelihood is gone. Having contacted both the Israeli Police, the DCO and the ICRC, no interrogations or arrests have been made. The perpetrators go free and Akram's suffering continues. I wonder if the peace talks currently underway in Washington DC will ever give Akram back his only source of income.

Living with (Qassam) rockets

2010-09-04T10:29:00.004+03:00

Sderot is a small city in the southern part of Israel, located only a few kilometers from the border with the Gaza strip. The city has for many years been the target of Qassam rockets being launched from the Gaza Strip by the Izz ad-Din al-Qassam Brigades and other militant groups in Gaza.

Two days ago I was fortunate to visit this little down in the Western Negev, where I met two local residents, Eric Yellin and Nomika Zion, co-founders of the peace group Other Voice.

Nomika Zion sharing her experiences from Sderot

Eric Yellin giving his perspectives on the situation in Sderot

Hearing the two residents sharing personal stories from their life under fire was both surreal and unreal. They appeared like any other suburban resident, whether it be in Norway, the United States, Japan or Germany. The only difference is that these two, among others, live in an area characterized by violence and hatred, and where rockets fired by hostile entities make life a precautionary tale. Nomika Zion gave an emotional laden description of life in Sderot over the last few years, explaining how it is to live with the uncertainty of random rocket attacks, ranging from 50-60 rockets per day to 1-2 every two weeks. Currently it is quiet, but this could suddenly change without warning.

House in Sderot previously hit by a Qassam rocket

The Other Voice works for regional peace and reconciliation. For 2010, the organization has several issues on its agenda. These include:

1. Campaign to end the siege on Gaza.

2. Joint seminars between residents of the surrounding Gaza/Sderot region.

3. Meeting with Israeli residents on the vision of Other Voice.

4. Outreach projects aiming at increasing the popularsupport for Other Voice.

5. Further work on the organization's homepage, http://www.othervoice.org.

A Sderot caterpillar - Playground and rocket shelter

After touring Sderot we were taken to a lookout point very close the the Gaza border and given a brief introduction to the events that have taken place in the last few years, including the kidnapping of IDF soldier Gilat Shalit.

In retrospect I regret not asking either Nomika or Eric why they choose to continue to live in a place like Sderot, when there is so much uncertainty, given the frequent and infrequent attacks from Gaza. However, my theory is that both of them, like so many other peace activists in Israel and Palestine, genuinely believe that regional peace can be achieved - the one that I take for granted.

The prison, also known as Gaza, can be seen in the distance

Haifa - a pictorial

2010-09-03T12:46:00.000+03:00

While this weeks killings in Hebron took place, the EAPPI group was in Israel meeting with Israeli and Palestinian peace groups. There are now a lot of speculations as to what will happen in the near future in the occupied territories. The general mood among Palestinians and Israelis, regarding the (potential) outcome of the direct talks currently underway in Washington DC, is gloomy, and Fatah currently holds little support amongst the Palestinian public.

Rather than focusing on the killings and the conflict, let me instead present a couple of photos from Haifa, a coastal city in northern Israel, that I visited earlier this week. Enjoy!

The Haifa port

Haifa seen from the Baha'i gardens

Entrance - Baha'i gardens

The Carmelit

The beach in Haifa

Tel Aviv-Yafo

2010-08-30T22:25:00.001+03:00

Last weekend was spent in Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel's second largest city/municipality, situated in the northern part of the country, on the Mediterranean coast. Given the mandate that we work under in the West Bank (including East Jerusalem), the visit was in many respects a complementary addition to interaction we have with Israelis on the West Bank, namely soldiers and settlers.

As I was leaving the West Bank on Friday morning, waiting at a bus stop frequented by both settlers and Palestinians, an Israeli man approached me and asked where I was from and where I was heading. I told him I had come from Tulkarem and was now going to Tel Aviv-Yafo to visit a friend of mine. It only took him a second to respond: "Tulkarem, so you have met with Arabs?" Just over an hour later I arrived in Tel Aviv-Yafo, a bustling metropolitan area, where girls wear miniskirts and guys prefer skateboards to bicycles, as means of transportation.

Tel Aviv-Yafo as seen from Ramat Aviv Mall (13th floor)

Despite there only being a mere 50 kilometers from where I met the questioning man and the city pictured above, there is big difference in terms of mindset. Although the opinions expressed herein are all subjective, I found that the few Israeli people I met in Tel Aviv-Yafo, showed a lot more (religious and political) tolerance than their counterparts in the West Bank (or as they like to call it; Judea and Samaria). They expressed their frustration with the current government's policies and the influence of the powerful religious lobby.

Old house in Tel Aviv-Yafo

My personal experience is that when it comes to "having an opinion" about Israel, no distinction is made between the government policies and your average Israeli citizen. I disagree with this interpretation. Why? First of all, there is a big difference between an Jewish settler in the West Bank and a secular Jew on the Mediterranean coast. Although the geographical distance between the two is very small, people in Tel Aviv-Yafo make no biblical claims to the land (of Judea and Samaria). They attempt to lead as normal lives as possible. However, they also share a sense of frustration for what they see as the lack of understanding from the international community regarding security, due to the sporadical rocket showers from Gaza. The suffering has been tremendous on both sides, and I was given several personal accounts on the suicide bombs that devastated the city, before the wall was erected. However, I left the city with a sense of complacency, that the people of Tel Aviv-Yafo share a desire for peace, no matter how fragile it may be, initially. Direct talks start on September 2nd.

The port in Yafo (Jaffa)

24 hours of diversity - visiting Tulkarem

2010-08-27T20:34:00.002+03:00

After three days off it was time to visit the EAPPI team in Tulkarem, (Area A), in the northern West Bank. Arriving on Wednesday morning, there was hardly time to unload my luggage from the taxi before we headed out into the field.

In the morning we visited a youth center in the village of Kafr al-Labad, where the EAPPI team is setting up an English conversation session with the local teenagers. After short introductions, the boys talked about everything, from politics to wrestling, as teenagers do.

The gang in Kafr al-Labab

Just before lunchtime (not lunch, as it is still Ramadan), we headed out to a small village north of Tulkarem, Khirbet al-Hamam, that had been attacked by settlers from the Mevo Dotan settlement. Accompanying us was a representative from the organization B'Tselem. Settlers had entered the village, using the village water. Before leaving, they set fire to the land, damaging several dunums of fertile farmland. This is a story all to familiar to area that I usually work in, south of Nablus. Fortunately it is a rare occurrence in the villages surrounding Tulkarem.

The villager on his torched land

Next up was a visit to the village of Ramin, suffering from roadblocks, set up by the Israeli army after the second intifada. These roadblocks make transport in and out of the village very inconvenient and the villagers are forced to make long detours. The aim of the village is now to remove these roadblocks and thereby easing access in and out of the village. After the tour, we where invited to attend an Iftar, the meal that breaks the fast during Ramadan. It is often a display of the culinary Palestine.

The Iftar meal in Ramin

Upon arriving back in Tulkarem, we were only allowed a few hours sleep before leaving for the at-Taybah terminal, where Palestinian laborers move across the border into Israel. The gate opens at 0300AM, and we where there some minutes prior to this. At that time almost 200 workers were already lining up and waiting for the green light, meaning open turnstiles. The atmosphere at the terminal is both tense and uncomfortable. The steel fence with its thick bars, separating us from the Palestinians, adds to the sense of injustice under which these people are suffering every day. It is hard to comprehend the psychological impact such barriers have on the mindset of ordinary human beings.

Early morning prayer outside Taybah terminal

As an EA, two consecutive days are never the same. This adds to the challenge, but at the same token makes it all so worthwhile - despite the occasional lack of sleep.

Morning at the Monastery

2010-08-24T15:29:00.002+03:00

Before heading back to al-Quds this morning, I was determined to make a visit to the Mount of Temptation in Jericho, said to hold the cave where Jesus where told by the devil that after a 40-day fast, the Son of God should make a loaf of bread from stone. For the biblical reference, see Matthew 4.1-11.

Approaching the monastery

The 12th century Greek orthodox monastery clings to the the mountainside overlooking the city of Jericho, with views of the Dead Sea to the south. From the cable-car terminal at the top, you walk along an alley, wedged between the mountain and the structures seen in the above photo.

The final walk

Inside the main room

Arriving at the cave church there were at least 30 persons crammed together in the small room. I later found out that they were Australians of Greek origin. Climbing a small staircase to a higher floor, people were taking turns prostrating under a mural of Jesus Christ. Resting their frames on a small rock, performing their prayer ritual, they rose up one by one, bursting into tears, obviously going through a powerful emotional and spiritual process. It felt awkward to me, but at the same time my presence seemed irrelevant and was in no way interfering with the their religious purification.

A prostrating Greek orthodox worshipper

Before my descent I walked outside the monastery, overlooking the eastern side caves, inhabited by monks and hermits since the early days of Christianity. Here I found an orthodox priest, in the traditional vestment, the cassock. He appeared as if submitting himself to a higher power, capturing the morning mood on this particular mountain in Jericho.

The orthodox cleric

Rest and Recuperation - Jericho

2010-08-23T21:57:00.000+03:00

Jericho is located in Area A (on the West Bank). That means the Palestinian Authority has both civilian and security/military control. It also means that citizens of Israel are not allowed to enter. This can clearly be seen from the patrons at the hotel, who are either Palestinians or foreign tourists (a busload of South Koreans just disembarked outside, preceded by a large group of catholic nuns). It is not that I take a great interest in visitor demographics, but given that the lobby is the only venue with wifi-access, the exposure is inevitable.

The Intercontinental Hotel - Jericho

One of the three pools

It is by all means interesting to have this "hotel experience" in an occupied territory. Living in a village where water is a scarce resource and people live on international food aid and what can be harvested off the land, it is quite the contradiction to see young Palestinian children, like the ones in "my village", splashing around in excess water and eating western food as if it is the only thing they ever knew. Although this is part of my days off, it is hard to not think about the village, everyday life, and their struggle for existence. On a personal note; I am already starting to miss it.

The Intercontinental Hotel in Jericho has it all - even camels

Rest and Recuperation - Masada and the Dead Sea

2010-08-23T04:04:00.001+03:00

After three weeks on the West Bank, I am now back in al-Quds (Jerusalem) for some time off. Arriving in al-Quds was in many ways a big relief. Living with settlers in the Palestinian countryside has taken a larger psychological toll than I first anticipated. So, for the next three days, I will focus on strictly non-political activities - although, as I experienced today, is not always easy here in Israel and Palestine. More on that below.

Today's mission was the Judean Desert, Masada and the Dead Sea, located 422 meters below sea level. Most of the day was spent inside the air-conditioned bus, while temperatures outside rose above 40 degrees centigrade. On the way to Masada we passed Qumran, where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered around 60 years ago.

View from Masada - looking south

View from Masada - looking north

Last on today's schedule was the almost compulsory float in the Dead Sea. A pretty interesting experience. It is impossible to swim because of the salinity levels (33% as opposed to 3% for regular sea water). And as the below photo illustrates, that is exactly what I did.

Greetings from the Dead Sea

As mentioned above, it is often difficult to put politics aside in this part of the world, no matter how hard you try. On the way back to the bus, I engaged in a friendly conversation with one of my fellow dippers, a jewish person of Indian origin. After asking me what I am doing here, to which I gave an honest answer, he lectured me on the use of the term "illegal" when it comes to settlement outposts and suggested that I work with illegal workers/migrants in Israel - if truly want to make a difference. My response was that this was unfortunately outside the mandate of the program that I work for. He shrugged, walked off...to the seat in front of mine on the bus.

Tomorrow I am off to Jericho via Ramallah, believed to be one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. If all goes according to plan, I shall ascend the Mount of Temptation.

Burin attack - Har Bracha settlers caught on tape

2010-08-23T02:45:00.009+03:00

In a previous post, I gave an eyewitness account of settlers attacking the village of Burin. On Wednesday last week, one of our team members met a local paramedic who happens to be volunteering for the fire department in Nablus. He told us that the fire brigade in Burin had plenty of footage, docmenting the attack. We stopped by on our way home from Urif and were provided with several photos and videoclips, and permission to publish. Two of the clips are attached, complementing the photos in the above mentioned post. In the second clip a settler can be seen pointing an M-16 automatic weapon at us, which I did not realize until I saw this footage.

Urif village

2010-08-19T19:46:00.000+03:00

Abu Amar is the mayor (mukhtar) in the village of Urif, wedged between the settlements of Yitzhar and Har Bracha. The former is the home of Rabbi Yitzhak Shapira, who previously stated that it is legitimate to kill gentiles, non-jewish people, or more likely, people of arab origin, namely Palestinians.

As with the other villages in the region, Urif has suffered attacks by settlers, most of them violent in nature. Although things are quiet at the moment, perhaps because of Ramadan, the villagers always keep a close eye on the surrounding hilltops. And, as the olive harvest is slowly approaching, people are particularly concerned.

Upon entering Abu Amars home, we were offered both tea and cigarettes, which is customary here in Palestine. Although not during Ramadan. However, as he was about to light up his cigarette, he let out a heartwarm: "Ramadan karim", and laughed. For him, Ramadan was over at noon.

Abu Amar - a proud mayor

The purpose of our visit was not to hear about the settler attacks or the army incursions. We were in the village to speak to Palestinian nurses who work in the village clinic, which is supervised by Doctors of the World. We arrived at 1350 and were told that the clinic had closed at 1400. This is how it is sometimes on the West Bank - time is a fluid concept. Abu Amar gave us a brief overview of the clinic and informed us that it would now open again on Sunday. "Ahlan wa sahlan - You are welcome" (back then).

Sometimes things are quiet and life is normal. This is a good thing, but is often easy to forget.

UNOCHA: Israeli Settler Violence and the Evacuation of Outposts

2010-08-16T22:42:00.002+03:00

November 2009 UNOCHA oPt. published a fact-sheet on settler violence in the West Bank, presenting a comprehensive outline of the settler movement's "price-tag policy" and its effect on surrounding arab villages. It is a short piece, and a great introduction to an issue not much debated, in the context of the Arab-Israeli conflict, but which is affecting the daily lives of Palestinians and their prospects for a sustainable livelihood, not to mention future statehood.

Itamar outposts: Hill 782 (left) and Hill 830 (right)

Art Nouveau - à la Palestine

2010-08-16T18:14:00.003+03:00

All over the West Bank fences, walls, razor coils and barbwire contribute to make this hospitable land look both intimidating and hostile. Installed for "security reasons", these contribute to generate both frustration and anger amongst an occupied nation. But, it clearly also bring out vast amounts of artistic expressions, which helps adorning often grey and pale surfaces.

This morning, my team and I made a short visit to a nearby village, Beit Dajan, where the direct access road has been blocked by the army (IDF) since the second/al-Aqsa intifada. The road connects with the upgraded road being used by the Elon More settlement, and hence constitute a security concern. In the village we had a brief meeting with the village council, which told us that one of their men had been arrested at 0130AM, by the Israeli army, two days prior to our visit. Other than that, life in the village was quiet, with no harassment from settlers or the heavily armed green troops. Upon leaving the council building, I noticed a few graffiti-like murals on the opposite side of the street, one of them being of Handala, the Palestinian symbol of defiance. It then struck me that, in this nation, laden with explosive politics, the walls, being a home or a barrier, becomes a creative outlet for freedom of speech - for those living under occupation.

Handala (right), village shuhada (left) - Beit Dajan village

Faces of resistance - Beit Dajan village

Returning home to the village we always pass through the town of Aqraba. Since day one, there is a particular place that always reminds me that I am in the Middle East (should I ever forget) - Saddam square. I once asked our driver why those posters are there and he swiftly replied: "Some people here like him." Pondering his answer, I still do not know why it is riddled with bullet holes.

Saddam square - Aqraba

Upon arrival in the village around noon, we found the following article on the Ma'an news agency website: Settlers uproot 200 olive trees south of Nablus. It raises that all important question: Why?

Fragmenting the Land

2010-08-14T02:05:00.004+03:00

The below map, although created with humoristic intent, highlights the severity of the territorial infringement under which the Palestinian nation is suffering. Yes, it is an outcome of the Oslo Accords, and no, it is not politically sustainable.

Eastern Palestine Archipelago

Fore the sake of clarity, it is useful to have a look at the historical territorial developments since 1948, and attempt to grasp what this has done and possibly will do for a future Palestinian state, if it is ever to materialize. Also, it is important to understand the outcome of this fragmentation, which was created through the Oslo Accords, from 1993-2000.

Historical territorial development

Map: http://www.arabnewsblog.net

The Oslo Accords led to the following division of the West Bank, between Israel and the Palestinian National Authority:

Area A: (17%) The Palestinian Authority (PA) exerts full civil and security control. Comprises of Palestinian towns, and some rural areas away from Israeli population centers in the north (between Jenin, Nablus, Tubas and Tulkarem), the south (around Hebron), and one in the center south of Salfit.

Area B: (24%) Adds other populated rural areas, many closer to the center of the West Bank. The Palestinian Authority has civil control, Israel military control.

Area C: (59%) Contains all the Israeli settlements, roads used to access the settlements, buffer zones (near settlements, roads, strategic areas and Israel), and almost all of the Judean desert and the Jordan Valley. Israel exerts full civil and military control.

The third map (above) is the one that is most often associated with the West Bank. However, what few realize is that the occupying force (Israel), in breach of both the Fourth Geneva Convention (1949) and UN General Assembly Resolution 194, has slowly and forcefully annexed Palestinian land, whilst at the same time increasing military presence in Area B. The third map (above), should be consolidated with the UNOCHA map, as the latter illustrates the physical constructs imposed by Israel, in order to choke and cripple the Palestinian economy, almost rendering it obsolete.

Moving away from the undeniable political facts, it is only when one reflects upon own experiences, that one can begin to fathom the severity of the situation on the ground. Checkpoints, random id-checks at bus-stops, bypass roads for Israeli settlers only (Palestinians risk being shot), separate busses and electricity grids, different license plates, and villages an housing clusters where one is not allowed to enter. They live side by side, yet such strong alienating sentiment looms overhead. Us and them - will there ever be just "(all of) us"?

Walking here - a criminal offense for Israelis (Jordan Valley)

UNOCHA oPt.

2010-08-12T09:28:00.000+03:00

As the name suggests UNOCHA oPt. is in charge of coordinating humanitarian affairs. Clearly, oPt. means occupied Palestinian territory. Since new teams have arrived, we requested a meeting with UNOCHA to be briefed on the latest closure developments for the Northern governorates, that are part of the UNOCHA oPt. mandate in Nablus. These six governorates are Salfit, Qalqiliya, Nablus, Tulkarem, Tubas and Jenin.

UNOCHA oPt. in Nablus

The Humanitarian Affairs Analyst told us how he wants us to work in the field and how and when to report to UNOCHA. Basically, its all about facts, facts and more facts. UNOCHA (oPt.) produces very good maps, which are extremely useful when operating in the field. Here is a link to the latest (June 2010) West Bank Closure - Northern Governorates map. To clarify, closures refer to any physical (man made) obstacle or structure that impede the movement of Palestinians on the West Bank, including checkpoints, security gates, earthmounds, trenches or road barriers.

Ramadan karim!

Ramadan - رمضان

2010-08-11T07:09:00.002+03:00

Today (sunrise) marks the beginning of the muslim holy month of Ramadan. In 2010, Ramadan runs from 11th August until 9th September. The month differs every year, as it follows the muslim lunar calendar.

Mosque in the nearby village of Yasouf. Torched by settlers in December 2009

In villages where people live by strict adherence to Islam, this means that there will be no consumption of food and drinks (including water), from sunrise to sunset. So is the case for the village of Yanoun. Welcome to the next 30 days of my life.

Book Review 1

2010-08-10T12:29:00.013+03:00

Palestine in Pieces: Graphic Perspectives on the Israeli Occupation by Kathleen and Bill Christison (Pluto Press, 2009)

Available here

The authors, both former members of the CIA, trace the Israeli occupation of Palestine from 1948 until today, through an eloquent presentation and with great use of pictures, from their time on the West Bank, Gaza and in Israel. They argue that the occupation, from and Israeli point of view, is deep rooted in the Israeli government's zionist aspiration, to create a pure Jewish state, free of any non-jew, it be Arabs, Asians, Africans or Europeans.

The Israeli government, argues that the wall is both temporary and for security reasons. The book challenges this points, by arguing that if the wall was for security reasons it would have followed the Green Line (1949 Armistice Line). Instead, they argue, the wall is being erected in order to connect Israel with the larger settlements on the West Bank, like Ariel, in order to fragment the West Bank further, while giving Israel unprecedented control and access between Jordan and the Mediterranean Sea. This, while at the same time using the wall to further annex Palestinian farmland and scarce water resources, crippling the Palestinian agrarian economy further.

The book is filled with interesting facts, numbers and maps and serves as a quick introductory reading for anyone interested in finding out more about reality on the ground in the Palestinian territory.

Iraq Burin #2

2010-08-10T12:09:00.004+03:00

Iraq Burin is a small village southwest of Nablus, located in the district itself. Over the past few few months the younger part of its population of merely 700-800 inhabitants have been involved in weekly demonstrations and clashes with the Israeli Army (IDF) and the Border Police. The conflict culminated on the 21st March 2010, when two young men where shot dead in the village by the Israeli army (IDF).

Iraq Burin (on the cliff)

The people of Iraq Burin feel it is their duty to make their voices heard, because they fear attacks from settlers in the nearby religious Har Bracha settlement. Our local contact, a young Palestinian student, told us about the current situation in the village. Just outside the housing boundaries, the village has two wells, which supply parts of the surrounding farmland. Settlers from the above mentioned settlement, make frequent trips to these wells (for no apparent reason), despite the fact that these are located on farmland utilized by Iraq Burin. There have been clashes with the settlers in the past, but the main issue as of today she told us, are the weekly demonstrations.

The protests generate is a lose-lose situation for the people. If they do not, fear of settler intrusion and attacks grow stronger, and this is a way for the people to voice their genuine concern. It is well known in the area that the Har Brachha settlement does not shun the use of violence. However, these Saturday protests always lead to army intervention and arrests of young men in the village. Additionally the village is closed down as long as the demonstration prevails. Only last Saturday were four Palestinian men blindfolded and detained, taken to the army compound close to Huwara Checkpoint, only to be released a few hours later. No charges were laid against them. Settler attacks or army arrests - the choice is yours.

Northwest - look closely and you can spot Tel Aviv-Yafo

Looking north, towards Jenin

Given the current climate in the village, people there are extremely wary of outsiders or "internationals" as we pale-skinned individuals are often referred to as, by Palestinians. This makes it extremely difficult to document regular days, like yesterday, with camera. The army often operate with name lists and attached photos when making arrests, and many villagers fear that outsiders are spying for the Israeli army. That being said, during yesterday's visit, we were invited into the home of Abu Saddam (father of Saddam, the eldest son in the house), his wife and their six children. After having finished a cup of tea, which is customary here, we were offered lunch and moved to the floor, were we feasted on rice with lamb and soup made from sheep milk. All prepared by Umm Saddam (the mother of the oldest son). Politics and protests aside, there is something about Palestinian hospitality that never ceases to amaze me. The generosity. Sometimes it is hard to comprehend and difficult to accept - but at the same time, so easy to embrace.

Re: An-Najah National University - and Balata refugee camp, Nablus

2010-08-07T13:24:00.003+03:00

Insightful and eventful. This is how I would like to describe the day before yesterday. As announced in the previous post, we had an appointment with the public relations director at An-Najah National University in Nablus. Acting PR-director, Ala Abu Dheer, gave us his outlook on the program and let us know how he wants us to contribute to the university. His emphasis was on a public speaking discourse, aiming at making the students more confident speaking in larger groups, in order to better communicate with the non-Arab world. Hopefully we will have a class of 20 eager students next week, and I look forward to hear them share their stories from life on West Bank.

Main entrance (looking in)

Main entrance (looking out)

Life on the West Bank, what does it mean? After finishing our appointment we decided to visit the Balata Refugee Camp, funded by UNRWA, located on the southern outskirts of Nablus. All the inhabitants of Balata are either refugees from 1948, or (second or third generation) relatives of these. Immediately after entering one of the streets in Balata, we were introduced to the Happy Childhood Club. Here, we met 19-year old Mamoun, a soft-spoken and polite English literature student at an-Najah National University, and a third generation resident in Balata. He asked if we would like to take a walk around the camp, an offer we humbly accepted.

Happy Childhood Club (HCC) in Balata

He told us about life in the camp and managed to portray a rather ordinary life, despite the overcrowding and the fact that the camp is still only a temporary solution for the refugees. He had positive outlook on life and most of all, was looking forward to going back to university in mid-September, where he will be a sophomore.

School entrance, Balata Refugee Camp

According to Mamoun, Balata has to main streets, School street (shaare al-madrassa) and Market Street (shaare al-soq). The names have been given, for obvious reasons. One is filled with schools and the other filled with shops, selling everything from fresh mint leaves to bicycle tubes and toothpaste. Between the two you find the cemetery, which entrance is decorated by posters of the martyrs (shuhada) that were killed in the struggle for a free Palestine.

School street (shaare al-madrassa)

Market street (shaare al-Soq)

At 0100 AM yesterday morning we were woken up by the mayor in the village. A fire had broken out on the northeastern hill (Hill 830). Hillside fires are a regular occurrence in the region, and are often part of the settler movement's price-tag policy. After a couple of hours with heavy traffic between the illegal Itamar settlement and its outposts, we were able to go to sleep at 0300 AM.

An-Najah National University

2010-08-05T07:30:00.002+03:00

The EAPPI program has a longstanding relationship with the university through organizing English conversation classes on campus. Our team will meet with the Public Relations department today, to hear more about the program and to see how we can contribute to the running of the program. The semester commences around mid-August.

An-Najah National University is located in the city of Nablus on the West Bank.

International versus settler presence

2010-08-04T08:50:00.005+03:00

The Itamar settlement and its outposts completely surround the village of Yanoun. This includes already built and paved roads, as well as (illegally) claimed land, where any form of construction is yet to take place. (See map below). After Monday's event, where a group of settlers started shifting dirt with a bulldozer, on the road leading into the eastern side of village, the mayor (mukhtar) called upon help from the army and the ICRC (the International Committee of the Red Cross). The army inspected the site on Monday and the ICRC were briefed on the matter yesterday, both by the mayor and the ecumenical accompaniers.

The ICRC paying the village a visit (Hill 777 in the background)

Last night, while playing soccer with the village children between Upper and Lower Yanoun, a white settler pickup truck (they look like ordinary cars/trucks, although they usually have extremely long antennas) passed by us, and turned right onto the the above mentioned road. This might seem like a regular occurrence, but there is something rather troubling about this. Why? Because it might have a devastating impact on the future livelihood and sustainability of the entire village, as the settlers would eventually make claim to the entire eastern valley. The eastern valley is one of the few remaining grazing areas and fertile land in the village. On the map, this can be seen to the east of the road running across Yanoun (north-south). The topography of the map clearly shows the valley between Hill 777 and Hill 830. The upper part of the valley has already been claimed by the settlers, severely restricting shepherds movement.

Yanoun and its surroundings

It is a strange feeling living "like this", constantly looking up on the hills, checking cars, following soldiers movement, waiting for the next thing to happen. Although life in the village is quiet most of the time, there is that sense of tension, since we are always on alert. We were told yesterday that settler activity has decreased since the program started began its presence in the village in 2002, after the second intifada. I guess that is what the EAPPI program is all about - protective presence. At the same time, there is an odd, almost eerie feeling about the whole place, particularly at night, and the feeling of "us against them" is reinforced.

Handover and back to work

2010-08-03T10:10:00.002+03:00

Before heading back to the placement, after six days in Jerusalem for security briefings and tours of the city, the handover ceremony was held at the Evangelical Lutheran Church of the Redeemer in al-Quds.

The handover ceremony

This means that Group 36 is now responsible for each of the six placements: Hebron, Bethlehem, Jerusalem, Jayyous, Tulkarem and Yanoun.

The Zatara/Tappuah junction is where we take a right, off route 60, and head east towards the Jordan Valley and Yanoun. On the hillside you can see the Tappuah settlement, which has been involved in violent clashes with Palestinian farmers in the past. The photograph below illustrates that we are back in the area and ready to resume our duties as ecumenical accompaniers.

The Zatara/Tappuah junction

Settler activity on the southeastern hill (Hill 777) has picked up this morning. At this point it is unclear what exactly is going on, but large trucks have arrived and it appears as if they are moving land.

The illegal Itamar settlement and its outposts surround Yanoun

Sunday morning service

2010-08-01T14:56:00.000+03:00

The EAPPI program, among others, seeks to show solidarity with Christian Palestinians, a religious minority in the Palestinian Territory. One way in which this is done, is through the attendance at local services, both in Nablus, Bethlehem, Hebron and Jerusalem.

Sunday morning a fair group of EA's (Ecumenical Accompaniers) attended the bilingual (Arabic/English) service at 0930 AM at the St. Georges cathedral, part of the The Episcopal Diocese of Jerusalem, in Jerusalem.

Where the service was held

Accompaniers entering the cathedral

The congregation received the Holy Communion. After the service, the accompaniers enjoyed coffee and refreshments with the local Christian community.

During the service

A Day of Demonstrations

2010-07-31T08:17:00.000+03:00

Friday is the day for demonstrations here in Jerusalem. As part of the training we attended two different demonstrations yesterday. One was organized by the Woman in Black and took place at the French square in East Jerusalem.

At the Woman in Black vigil

The second one took place in the neighborhood of Sheikh Jarrah, where Palestinian homes have been taken over by settlers and where the city is planning for more evictions leading to a further Judaization of East Jerusalem.

The neighborhood in dispute

Demonstrators in Sheikh Jarrah

From Jerusalem - Shabbat shalom!

David Ben Meir

2010-07-29T21:14:00.003+03:00

While touring East Jerusalem with Angela Godfrey-Goldstein from The Israel Committee Against House Demolitions (ICAHD), we made a stop above Nof Zion. It was here that we were introduced to David Ben Meir, a Chicago-native, jewish settler, from Eli, on the West Bank, commonly referred to by settlers as Judea and Samaria.

Expansionary plans for Nof Zion in East Jerusalem

It quickly became evident that David Ben Meir was a man on a mission. Although he was there touring with jewish schoolchildren from all over Israel, he felt compelled to educate the EAPPI group on issues pivotal to the settler community on the West Bank. After briefing us on the 5000 year history of Judea and Samaria, while simultaneously stressing the importance of human rights (in Afghanistan and Iraq), he sincerely asked us, the EAPPI group, to respect his wish: "Stop the persecution of jews while you are in Israel!"

That being said he also acknowledged: "Yes, we have a small problem with our neighbors.", although his metaphor was all but convincing. Not knowing any better, I take David Ben Meir to be a reductionist. However, I find this hard to consolidate with his elaborate presentation on jewish genetics and the current political climate.

According to his business card, David Ben Meir works for the Bnei David, The Military Yeshiva Academy of Israel, in Eli. There two sides to every story, and David Ben Meir represents one of them.

BBC Hardtalk - Interview with the Shilo resident Yisrael Medad (2007)

2010-07-28T18:53:00.006+03:00

The interview is three years old, but the questions in place are by all means relevant in 2010, as reported by Haaretz today. I pass by the Eli and Shilo settlement every time I travel to Jerusalem via Ramallah. The views expressed by Yisrael Medad are common among the settler movement, and NOT the average Israeli citizen, which is threatening the very existence of the Palestinian villages on the West Bank, including Yanoun.

Al-Quds (Jerusalem)

2010-07-27T08:05:00.005+03:00

Today's schedule involves heading back to Jerusalem for six days of training and the official handover. Posts might be less frequent, or of a different character, than what they have been in the last few days, but nonetheless - keep following.

An orthodox and a dome (Jerusalem)

* UPDATE * (1730 PM)

Prior to leaving (Upper) Yanoun for Jerusalem this morning, the army entered. For reasons unknown, an army jeep entered the village and parked right next to International House (my current residence). Three soldiers disembarked the vehicle and had a look at the neighboring shed, where a room is being constructed. Next to their vehicle, they made a few gestures, looked toward the hills, which is packed with illegal (settler) outposts and then left. If the visit was due to the new room, the army will be back with a demolition order. Any developments will be posted here.

Morning encounter with the army in Yanoun

Morning call: Burin village

2010-07-26T19:21:00.007+03:00

At 0830 AM this morning we received a call from one of our local contacts. Several settlers from the Har Bracha settlement attacked houses in the Burin village, south of Nablus. The attacked started after the Israeli Army (IDF) made an attempt to remove one of the outposts belonging to the settlement. For the Israeli version of the event, see Jewish Press International.

Upon arrival in the village around 1030 AM, the settlers had been pushed back onto the hilltop by the Israeli Army. Before being forced to move, they had set fire to land and a serious fire raged for more than an hour. As it spread across the hill, settlers and palestinians were hurling stones at each other, using slingshots. Local Palestinian media were on the scene, as well as representatives from EAPPI and Rabbis for Human Rights. The story were also covered by ynet.

Settlers from Bracha can be seen below the settlement outpost

Soldiers approaching...

Soldiers on the Burin hillside

Fire raging outside Burin village near the Huwara checkpoint

While having lunch in Nablus we received a call from the mukhtar (mayor) in Upper Yanoun. A fire was now moving across the hills adjacent to the village. Approaching the village we could see smoke and approximately 20-30 settlers on the hillside. It is not known whether the fire was started deliberately or if it was caused by the extremely dry weather in the region.

The Jordan Valley

2010-07-26T08:51:00.002+03:00

The valley covers most of the eastern part of the West Bank and is separated from the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan by the Jordan river, which is controlled by Israel. The valley is deep (see photo below) and the land is harsh and rugged. In the summer, daily temperatures soar above 40 degrees.

90 meters below sea level

Several issues are pressing in the valley and requires the attention of the international community. Most of the Jordan Valley is what according to the 1993 Oslo Accords is described as Area C - where Israel exerts full military and civilian control. This includes the settlements and their access roads, buffer zones and military facilities. Over the past month house demolitions have been taking place at an increasing rate in al-Farisiya. Because of difficulties pertaining to building permissions, Palestinian structures stand (or fall) at the mercy of the Israeli Civil Military Administration.

House demolition in al-Farisiya (Jordan Valley)

Water is scarce in the Jordan Valley and the resource is controlled by Israel. Local farmers have wells containing water, but samples analyzed by the PA Ministry of Health, concludes that the water is not safe for drinking. The same farmers express frustration with the current PA administration as no action has been taken, as of today, in order to clean, process or filter the wells.

No Palestinian water access in al-Farisiya (Jordan Valley)

The Jordan Solidarity Movement is a local NGO run by Palestinians for Palestinians. Their main focus currently, is to get water to the local farms, through the use PVC-pipes and storage tanks. In the coming months, we will have increased focus on advocacy work in the region and I hope to come back with more updates at a later stage.

Iraq Burin

2010-07-25T08:19:00.004+03:00

Yesterday we made an attempt to enter the Palestinian village of Iraq Burin, just south of Nablus on the West Bank. The village has been on lockdown since March, when two young Palestinians were killed by live ammunition, although this is being disputed by the Israeli Army (IDF). The Palestine Monitor published a recount of the events. (Warning: Contains graphic images.)

Upon entering the hillside road that leads up to the village we were stopped by the Israeli Border Police (Magav), the military branch of the Israeli Police, and which sometimes support the army in security operations. For reasons unknown, entering the village during the Shabbat (Friday sunrise to Saturday sunset) has become almost impossible, and yesterday was no exception. When we asked why we where not allowed to enter, the answer(s) we received where both contradicting and humorous. Firstly, we were told military law prevented us from entering. Seconds later we were told that the village was simply too dangerous and that only the villagers were allowed access. I will make another attempt next week, albeit not during the Shabbat, to see if the security situation is deemed more appropriate on a weekday. That being said, it is currently uncertain whether or not an international presence in the village is serving its purpose and we might have to cease in the near future. As we turned around, we were sent off with a "God bless you" by one of the soldiers. Reassuring.

Back in Yanoun, life went on as usual. The shepherds were out and there was little activity on the hills. I'll sign of with a couple of photos taken yesterday evening.

The village (Yanoun) seen from the main road

Local shepherds (Yanoun)

The UN building (Yanoun) - although the agency was never here

Arrival in Yanoun

2010-07-23T22:44:00.002+03:00

After a few hours of orientation in East Jerusalem, we set out on the journey that would take us through the Qalandiya checkpoint an into the West Bank. In Ramallah we changed to a smaller taxi and continued North on route 60. It did not take long until the landscape changed, with steep hills, exposing the jewish settlements and their outposts. Two such settlements are Shilo and Eli. An interesting feature of these settlements is that they are all built on the top of the hills, while the neighboring Arab villages are usually found in the bottom of the valleys.

Arriving in the village of Yanoun (Upper) after the three hour drive from the city of Jerusalem, was very pleasant, as can be seen below...

The view from my doorstep - the Jordan Valley

My home in Yanoun - International House

Sights from Jerusalem

2010-07-22T17:33:00.003+03:00

Today was spent wandering the streets of the Old City. Here are a couple photos which I think captures the spirit in this city: Diverse, dense and dramatic.

The Dome of the Rock

al-Aqsa mosque - the third most holy site in Islam

Arab merchant - the Old City (Jerusalem)

Greetings from Al-Quds (Jerusalem)

2010-07-22T07:44:00.007+03:00

After two relatively short flights I arrived in Tel Aviv yesterday afternoon, expecting a long-winded introductory affair with the Israeli passport control. However, after only three questions I was approved and checked out with a three month visa.

Next stop Jerusalem/Al-Quds where I met up with the rest of the EA's at the Azzahra Hotel and Restaurant in East Jerusalem. The night was rounded of with a walk around the old city. An impressive sight, even for the most hardened traveller. The city is a wonderful mix of young playful Israelis (not comparable to Tel Aviv apparently), Haredi jews and Palestinians hard at work selling their produce. At the same time, you easily get a feeling for how divided the city is. They live so close, but yet so far away from each other. However, this is an initial reflection and by no means a qualified statement. Subjective - by all means.

There are no particular plans (with the program) for today, so the day will spent exploring the city on foot and perhaps trying out the local barber shop and a reading session at the American Colony Hotel. The sun is up, and it's time for breakfast!

Pre-departure interview

2010-07-14T23:47:00.003+03:00

On July 9, the biggest newspaper in my local county published a brief interview with me. The story highlights the EAPPI program, its aim and functions. Unfortunately this is only available in Norwegian.

Itamar (אִיתָמָר) - the Gem of the Hills

2010-07-14T10:01:00.001+03:00

Here is an introduction to my new neighbours. The settlement of Itamar - the Gem of the Hills. More information can be found here.

Yanoun - يانون

2010-07-13T20:53:00.001+03:00

Finally received the long awaited notice from the Jerusalem office regarding my placement. I will be spending the next three months in Yanoun, a tiny Palestinian village on the West Bank, nestled between olive trees, Jewish settlements and the Jordan River, around 15km southeast of Nablus.

The village is (for historical reasons) divided into two smaller sections, named Uppper and Lower consecutively, and the total population is approximately 100 persons. Nearly half of these are children. There have been some serious incidents taking place in the village in the past decade, but I will come back to this at a later stage. Map courtesy of yanoun.org.

Introducing the group

2010-07-01T13:18:00.003+03:00

For those of you lucky enough to read Norwegian, Norwegian Church Aid (NCA) have just published a short piece, briefly introducing the next group of ecumenical accompaniers leaving in July.

Click here to read.

It all starts from here...

2010-06-28T21:19:00.001+03:00

It was with great anticipation/excitement that I visited the head office of Norwegian Church Aid (NCA) today, expecting to be designated my placement. However, there is still no word from the office in Jerusalem, so the waiting continues.

Departure has been set to July 21st, a mere three weeks away. Plenty of things to organize, books to read, things to pack etc., but I'm on the right track. At least that's how it feels, as of today.

Just started reading a book by the former UN High Commissioner for Refugees, Sadako Ogata, entitled The Turbulent Decade - Confronting the Refugee Crisis of the 1990s. Should be an interesting read.

Stay tuned - it all starts from here...